British Suits vs Italian Suits
Roberto Revilla, Founder of Roberto Revilla London Bespoke Suit & Shirt Makers, blends the best of British & Italian tailoring in his own outfits.
For more than a century, the tailored suit has been the uniform of the well-dressed man. But not all suits are created equal. Around the world tailoring traditions have evolved in response to climate, culture and lifestyle : nowhere is this more evident than in the age old rivalry between British and Italian suits. Both have shaped global menswear in profound ways and each tell a different story through their cut, cut and character.
A Tale of Two Traditions
British tailoring finds its roots in the hallowed streets of Savile Row, London, where military precision and aristocratic formality defined men’s dress in the late 18th and 19th centuries. The British suit was built to project authority and last for years, even decades, of wear. Its heritage is one of discipline: structured shoulders, clean lines and a strong, almost architectural silhouette.
By contrast, Italian tailoring was shaped by the Mediterranean climate and the Italian spirit of sprezzatura, cultivated unconcerned coolness that makes elegance look totally effortless. From the sunlit piazzas of Naples to the fashionable streets of Milan, Italian tailors created garments that were lighter, softer and more expressive. Here, comfort and individuality were just as important as formality, resulting in a style that feels both luxurious and relaxed at the same time.
The Craft: Structure vs. Softness
A British suit is an absolute masterclass in structure. Typically made from heavier cloths such as worsted wool, tweed or flannel, the best tailors will use a full canvas construction to help the jackets structure and shape, along with helping the garment live longer being more resistant to damp and dry cleaning. Shoulders are often roped and padded, the chest firm and the waist subtly suppressed. The jacket tends to be cut a little longer with a lower button position, while trousers are cut with a clean trim drape - all of which work together to create a commanding, upright profile.
Italian tailoring on the other hand is about lightness and fluidity. The fabrics are luxurious and natural - linen blends, tropical lightweight wools, silks and soft cashmeres, all of which breathe easily in warmer weather. Padding in the shoulders is minimal or absent, with unlined or half-lined jackets allowing greater movement of air between the garment and the body. The fit is often closer to the body with shorter jackets, higher button position and slimmer lapels to create a more youthful energy, or wide peak lapels for those wanting a more powerful, dominant look. If the British suit is a well-drilled “let’s-get-down-to-business” officer, the Italian suit is a charming, sociable raconteur.
Stylistic Signatures
British suits lean towards understatement on the whole. Colours are usually solid navy, charcoal or subtle pinstripes, worn with crisp white and blue shirts, muted ties and polished black oxfords. It’s a look of quiet, understated confidence… the sort of suit you might see in a City of London boardroom or at a Royal garden party.
In contrast, Italian suits embrace colour and personality. Lighter greys, rich blues with pop, earthy browns and bold checks are all very common, often accessorised with open-neck shirts, patterned pocket squares and stylish loafers or monk straps. For ties look to designers like Ferragamo for high-design classy woven ties, or fun cheeky prints of animals and objects.
Italian suits are tailoring that invites attention without begging for it, a suit for the man who is comfortable being noticed and complimented wherever he goes.
Practical Considerations
Choosing between the two often comes down to climate, occasion and your personality.
Climate: Heavier British fabrics are ideal for cooler, wetter environments; lightweight Italian fabrics are better in warm, dry conditions.
Occasions: British suits are perfectly suited to formal business and ceremonial wear; Italian tailoring shines at social events, summer weddings and in creative industries.
Fit Preference: If you favour structure and authority, go British. If you want ease of movement and a more relaxed aesthetic, choose Italian.
Cultural Icons
Pop culture has reinforced these style archetypes. The British suit brings to mind the timeless elegance of James Bond, Winston Churchill and King Charles,all symbols of heritage, discretion and gravitas. The Italian suit conjures images of Italian industrialist Gianni Agnelli, actor Marcello Mastroianni and the style gurus of Pitti Uomo - men who blend tradition with a sense of adventure and wear it like it’s second nature.
In the end, comparing British Suits versus Italian suits is not about which is more superior, but what’s more suitable style-wise for you as an individual.
Each has its strengths: British suits offer structure, tradition and authority; Italian suits provide lightness, personal expression and comfort. The modern gentleman might take inspiration from both - a navy British flannel for the winter months, a soft Italian linen for summer events and travel, working with your tailor to craft a wardrobe that is as versatile as it is elegant.
Because in the world of bespoke tailoring, there’s actually no need to choose one heritage over the other when you can wear both, each on the day, situation and occasion it was made for.
Find out more about our services and book your bespoke fitting here.
