How to Choose a Wedding Suit : A Tailor’s Honest Advice

Last month a groom walked into the studio looking absolutely terrified. Not about getting married, but about what he was supposed to wear. His fiancée had sent him to "sort out the wedding suit situation" and he had no idea where to start.

We sat down with a coffee and he showed me screenshots of suit styles, the wedding venue, colour palette and questions keeping him awake. Should he go traditional suit or formal? What colour works with her dress? What about the groomsmen - buy or hire?

This happens regularly during the wedding season. Nobody tells you how to navigate wedding attire. Everyone focuses on the bride's dress, the venue, the flowers and the groom gets left scrambling three months before the big day.

So today I'm sharing what I tell every groom who sits in that chair - honest advice from dressing hundreds of weddings.

Understanding the Wedding Attire Landscape

When planning a wedding, decisions come from everywhere. Your partner's choosing their dress, bridesmaids are messaging about outfits, parents are asking about formality, and you're stuck figuring out what won't clash.

The industry offers a vast spectrum, from hiring a basic suit to investing in bespoke morning dress. Both have their place, and I'm here to help you understand what makes sense for your situation.

Here's what nobody tells you... your outfit decision affects everyone in your wedding party. Go super formal in a morning suit? Your groomsmen need to follow. Choose something relaxed? That sets the tone for everyone.

One groom didn't realise this until two weeks before his wedding. He'd ordered a dinner suit but told his groomsmen to "just wear a dark suit". At the final fitting, he looked like he was attending a different wedding.

The other complication is coordinating with your partner's dress. You don't want to clash, but also don't want to be too matchy-matchy. It's a delicate balance. Often you won’t even know what your partner’s dress looks like - that’s where I come in. I always insist on being connected to the bride-to-be so I can get the full details on her outfit plus anything else that is important to her. They always have an opinion on what they’d like to see waiting for them when they walk down the aisle even if they don’t specifically tell you!

The Hire Question: When It Works and When It Doesn't

Right, let's tackle the elephant in the room... should you hire your wedding suit or should you buy?

Hiring makes sense in specific situations. If you're a groom who never wears suits, who works in a casual environment, and you can't see yourself wearing a three-piece suit ever again after the wedding day, then yes, hiring might be sensible. It's also budget-friendly if you're pouring most of your money into the venue, honeymoon, or getting on the property ladder.

But here's where it gets tricky... you need to know exactly what you're getting into. Not all hire services are created equal. Some offer well-maintained, decent quality garments that photograph well and fit properly. Others... Well, let's just say you get what you pay for.

I had a groom come to me three days before his wedding in absolute panic. He'd hired his wedding suit from a well-known chain, picked it up the day before, and realized it fit him like he'd borrowed his dad's suit from the 1980s. The trousers were pooling around his ankles, the jacket shoulders were sitting two inches too wide, and the whole thing just looked sad. Unfortunately it was too late for him to do anything and he will look back at his wedding photos with regret forever and ever.

If you're going down the hire route, do your research properly. Look for specialists who understand weddings, who offer proper fitting appointments, and who have good reviews. Actually read those reviews too. See what people say about the condition of garments, the fit, and the service. A quick search for costume hire near me might bring up options, but not all will be suitable for wedding attire, so make sure you're choosing a service that specialises in formal wear and weddings specifically.

The other thing about hiring is that it affects your groomsmen too. If you're hiring, they're probably hiring as well. That means coordinating multiple people through the same process, making sure everyone gets fitted properly, and hoping nothing goes wrong with anyone's order.

Now let's talk about buying and investing in something properly made.

When I sit down with a groom and they tell me they want to invest in their wedding outfit, I ask one simple question: "Will you wear this again?" If the answer is yes, if they wear suits for work, if they attend formal events, then buying and having a bespoke wedding suit made becomes not just a wedding expense but an investment in their wardrobe.

The advantage of buying your suit, particularly if you go bespoke or made-to-measure, is that the fit is absolutely spot on. Your wedding photos last forever, and you want to look back at those images and think "I looked brilliant" not "I looked like I was wearing someone else's suit".

Your wedding is probably one of the few occasions in life where spending money on looking your absolute best is completely justified. Your partner is likely spending a significant amount on their dress, hair, makeup, and everything else. You deserve to look just as good standing next to them.

The other massive advantage of buying is that you control the timeline (as long as you see your tailor early enough, I recommend at least three to four months before the wedding date). No last-minute panics about availability, no worrying about conditions, no stress about returns. You have your fittings, the garment is made specifically for you, and it's yours to keep.

Understanding Fabric: The Foundation of Everything

Most grooms don't think about fabric at all. They think about colour, style, whether to have a waistcoat, but fabric? It's usually an afterthought.

This is a mistake because fabric is literally the foundation of everything else. The fabric determines how the garment drapes, how it photographs, how comfortable it is during a long wedding day, and ultimately, how good you look.

I had a groom last summer who came to me after ordering a suit online. It looked fine in the photos, the price was decent, and he thought he'd got a bargain. When it arrived, he was disappointed. It didn't sit right, it looked cheap in the light, and he felt uncomfortable. We looked at the fabric content and there was the problem... It was a poly-wool blend with more synthetic than natural fibre.

Quality fabrics matter, and this is something your partner probably already knows if they've been looking at their wedding dress. If your partner is going for a luxury dress, particularly designer or couture pieces, then the quality of fabric in that dress is going to be exceptional. Natural silks, delicate laces, beautiful weaves that catch the light perfectly.

I remember working with a bride-to-be who came along to one of the groom's fittings, and she spent twenty minutes explaining about the fabric collection she'd been researching for some of the decorative elements in her dress. The attention to detail was incredible, and when she mentioned she was looking to buy Tilda fabric for certain details, it made me realise that if she was putting that much thought into every aspect of her dress fabric, the groom needed to match that level of quality in his outfit.

This is where coordination really comes in. You don't need to match fabrics exactly, that would be weird, but you need to be in the same quality ballpark. If your partner is wearing a couture dress with exquisite fabric, you can't turn up in a shiny polyester suit from the high street. The quality disparity will be obvious in photos.

For wedding suits and formal wear, you want pure wool at a minimum, ideally Super 100s or above if you can stretch to it. For summer weddings, lighter wool blends or even linen can work beautifully. For winter weddings, you might want something with more weight, a heavier wool or flannel.

The weave matters too. A plain weave is classic and safe, but you might consider a subtle texture like a sharkskin or birdseye weave that adds visual interest without being too loud. These textures photograph beautifully.

Colour is obviously important, and this is where you need proper conversation with your partner about their dress. The classic combination is a dark suit with a white or ivory dress, but there's so much more you can do.

The navy wedding suit works with almost everything and it's my go-to recommendation. It's formal enough for any wedding setting, photographs exceptionally well, and versatile enough that you'll definitely wear the suit again.

Grey is another fantastic option, particularly lighter greys for summer weddings. Just make sure you're not wearing a grey too close to your partner's dress colour. I once had a groom wanting to show up in a silver-grey suit, and when his fiancée thought about it next to her pale grey bridesmaid dresses, she nearly had a breakdown. We sorted it with navy instead!

For more formal traditional weddings, you might be looking at a morning dress, which traditionally means a black or grey morning coat with striped trousers. This is classic, timeless, and incredibly elegant when done properly.

The dinner suit is actually one of my favourite options for grooms because it's unambiguously formal, looks incredible in photos, and if you invest in a good one, you'll wear it for years at black tie events. The key is getting the fit perfect and making sure the fabric is proper dinner suit fabric... barathea weave or a nice faille, not just shiny polyester trying to look like silk.

Coordinating With Your Partner's Dress

This is where things get really interesting, and it's something I spend a lot of time discussing with couples.

Your partner has probably been planning their dress for months, maybe years. They've got Pinterest boards, Instagram saves, screenshots from every bridal magazine. They know exactly what style they want, what fabric, what details.

You don't need to match that level of obsession, let's be realistic, but you do need to be aware of what they're wearing so you can coordinate properly. The problem is MOST grooms will not know what their bride will be wearing, it’s a secret till the wedding day. So what do you do? That’s where Roberto, your awesome Bespoke Tailor comes in. I make sure I connect with your fianceé and we’ll have a separate conversation where I’ll find out everything I need to know.

I establish the formality level of their dress. Is it a full ballgown with a cathedral train? Is it sleek, modern, minimalist? Is it relaxed and bohemian? The style of their dress should inform the formality of your outfit.

I worked with a couple where the bride wanted a very relaxed, boho-style wedding. Her dress was beautiful but quite casual, flowing and natural with delicate lace details. The groom had his heart set on a full morning suit with tails. When we put the looks together, they didn't work. He looked like he was going to Royal Ascot and she looked like she was going to a beach wedding in Ibiza. We ended up designing him a beautiful linen wedding suit that complemented her style perfectly.

Next, coordinating colour. This doesn't mean matching you both exactly, that can look too staged, but I’d want to make sure nothing clashes horribly. If your partner is wearing warm ivory or champagne, be mindful of cool-toned greys that might look jarring.

Now, here's something I want to address about the bride's dress specifically. Your partner is probably spending significant money on their dress, possibly looking at quality options from premium designers or boutiques.

If they're investing in something really special, and exploring options where they can shop couture wedding dresses, then you need to match that energy with your outfit. I don't mean spend the exact same amount, but you need to be in the same quality neighbourhood.

Couture wedding dresses are made with exceptional attention to detail, beautiful fabrics, hand-finished elements, and a level of craftsmanship that's immediately visible. If your partner is wearing something at that level, you owe it to both of you to invest in proper tailoring as well.

I'm not saying this to push people towards expensive options. I'm saying it because I've seen wedding photos where one partner clearly invested in quality and the other didn't, and it shows. It's not about price tag, it's about quality being in the same ballpark so you look like a cohesive couple.

Accessories are where you can have fun while tying your look together. Pocket squares, ties or bow ties, cufflinks, and shoes all contribute to the overall aesthetic. If there's a colour scheme for the wedding, you can incorporate that into your accessories without going overboard.

Shoes are another area where grooms sometimes drop the ball. Don't turn up in tatty old shoes! Your shoes need to be pristine, properly polished, and appropriate for the formality level. For formal weddings, oxford shoes in black or dark brown. For something slightly less formal, brogues work beautifully. Just make sure they're in perfect condition and properly broken in before the wedding day. If you have sizing issues or just can’t deal with the hassle of traipsing round store after store, we also offer an amazing made-to-measure custom shoe service.

The Groomsmen Situation

Coordinating groomsmen can get complicated fast.

The traditional approach is identical outfits, maybe with slight variation. This looks cohesive in photos but requires coordination and can be expensive.

The modern approach gives flexibility within a framework. Specify "navy suit, white shirt, no tie" and let them wear what they own. More budget-friendly and feels natural.

What doesn't work is being vague. I had a wedding where the groom said "wear a suit, something smart". One guy showed up in navy, one in charcoal, one in light grey, one in brown three-piece. In photos it looked like they'd been invited to different weddings.

If you're going flexible, be specific about colour, formality, ties, and shoe colour.

If matching, get everyone measured early. Popular sizes book out during the wedding season. Give yourself at least three to four months.

What's Actually Worth Investing In

So what's actually worth spending money on?

First, invest in fit. Whether buying or hiring, bespoke or off the rack, fit makes or breaks the entire look. A perfectly fitted high street suit beats a badly fitted designer suit every time. If buying off the rack, budget for alterations.

Second, invest in quality where it's visible. Your wedding suit is the star, so if you're spending money on quality fabric and construction, spend it here.

Third, invest in accessories you'll use again. Quality leather shoes, a proper belt, good cufflinks and a quality dress watch will serve you for years beyond the wedding day.

What's not worth overspending on? Trendy details that might look dated in a few years. Super-slim fits that only work if you maintain your exact weight. Anything that feels like a costume rather than an elevated version of yourself.

The Timeline

Getting timing wrong causes more stress than anything else.

Bespoke or made-to-measure? Start ideally four to six months before the wedding. Buying off the rack? Give yourself three months for alterations. Hiring? Three months minimum, four during peak summer wedding season.

For groomsmen, add an extra month. Coordinating multiple people always takes longer than you think.

Final Thoughts

Your wedding attire needs to do three things: make you feel confident, look good in photos, and suit your wedding's formality. Everything else is details.

I've dressed grooms who spent a fortune and looked incredible, and grooms who spent modestly and also looked incredible. The difference wasn't budget, it was thought and care.

And here's my last piece of advice... wear it with confidence. Confidence is the best accessory, and it doesn't cost a penny.

If you've got questions, drop them in the comments below. That's what we're here for – to make sure every groom looks and feels brilliant on one of the most important days of their life.