What Should Men Wear to a Summer Wedding?

If you’ve got a summer wedding coming up and your current thinking is basically “right, I need to sort a suit”, then the first thing I’d say to you is that this is usually where men go wrong, because most men approach a summer wedding outfit as something they need to get done and ticked off the list rather than something they need to actually think through properly in the context of the event they’re going to, the people getting married, the general feel of the day, the setting, the weather, and what their outfit needs to do within all of that.

That is usually the mistake.

Not that they don’t care, because often they do care, but they’re caring in the wrong direction. They’re trying to get to an answer too quickly instead of asking the right questions first, and that’s why so many of them end up defaulting to some version of “light linen suit” without ever really stopping to ask whether that is actually the right answer for them, for the wedding, for the conditions, or for the people getting married.

And the first thing I need to say is that there are usually two completely different people asking this question in the first place. Either you’re attending a summer wedding, or maybe a series of summer weddings, as a guest and you want to get it right, or you’re the groom and it’s your own wedding suit we’re talking about. Those are not the same conversation, even though on the surface they sound like they are, because what a guest should wear and what a groom should wear can end up being very, very different.

If you’re the groom, the big mistake is often that you haven’t really talked things through properly with your partner and taken into consideration the day, the location, her wishes, her thoughts, and the bigger picture of what you’re actually creating together. Very often men have Pinterest boards or Instagram screenshots of outfits they think look great, with very little or no consideration as to whether those ideas, styles, colours or fabrics are actually right for them as an individual, and right for their wedding.

That’s why when I’m involved in something like this, I don’t need the man coming to me to know exactly what he wants, because that’s my job to guide him, but I do want to know everything. And I mean everything.

I’m like Mr Wolf in Pulp Fiction when he’s called upon to get Jules and Vince out of a very bloody mess, because I want to know precisely where and when the event’s happening, what the dress code is if you’re a guest, and if you’re the groom I want you to have some idea of what’s happening with the bridesmaids, the groomsmen, and most importantly I want you to have actually communicated with your partner honestly and in depth about their expectations for your outfit, because this should never be a “I haven’t sorted my wedding suit yet, better get one” thing, it should be considered.

So if I were giving you the cleanest framework possible before anything else, it’d be this.

When, Where and Who

When is the wedding, where is it, and who is getting married.

That sounds really simple, but actually those three things tell me nearly everything I need to know at the very start. When tells me the date and whether we even have time to create something properly in the first place or whether realistically you’re going to have to go off the rack. When combined with where tells me the climate and the setting we’re dealing with. And who, meaning who’s actually getting married, gets you thinking about their expectations, not your own, so you don’t end up turning up to a couple who give you funny looks because you completely ignored the memo.

Once I know those three things, then the order I think in is actually very straightforward. First I decide level of formality, so I’m asking myself is this a proper suit, is it a two piece, a three piece, a tux, or actually is it better as a more relaxed jacket and trousers combination. That then leads to colour, and once colour’s right then fabric follows, and once all of that’s in place then we can think about shirt, tie and shoes.

That’s why generic advice is so unhelpful, because it skips the order and jumps straight to the answer.

If the couple has decided on a black tie dress code, then that sorts itself out and this should be a tux. If it’s not black tie, but the bride wants her groom looking smart and her outfit demands that level, then this should be a proper suit. If the bride and groom are very chill and they’re having a very rustic, even boho type wedding, and they’re not worried about pretence, they just want everyone relaxed and having a great time, then that may be far better as a more relaxed jacket and trouser combination.

Then there’s the three piece question, and often in the bigger context of the wedding party that’s where the waistcoat has an actual job to do, because it helps elevate the groom above the groomsmen if they’re in two piece suits, and also thinking ahead it gives options later on because using it levels the whole outfit up and removing it helps calm the outfit down.

Colour Matters More Than Most Men Realise

Once formality’s established, colour becomes the next big thing, and when I’m thinking about colour there are really three things in my head all at once. The natural colouring of the groom, what the bride’s wearing and making sure his colours complement, frame and elevate her outfit, and then the overall setting including the venue, the environment and anything else going on in terms of key colour themes, floral arrangements, bridesmaids and so on, because everything should tie together and or complement everything else that’s going on.

And this is especially important when it comes to the groom, because my belief is that the groom should complement and elevate his bride’s outfit, which means not dressing in a way that would outshine her.

That means there are times when a groom’s original idea needs softening.

For example, one groom I’m about to work with is getting married in Romania in August when it’ll be over 30 degrees and a bit humid, and he gets hot quickly. When we first spoke he was determined to wear double breasted for his wedding, but after talking to his fiancée about her outfit and getting more detail about the date, location and general weather at that time of year, we both realised him getting what he wanted was going to be a big mistake.

Another example is one groom last year who got married in Madrid and they wanted to keep that relaxed European feel, so we ended up with a linen blend jacket and cotton trouser combination because that fit the vibe of the wedding. Another one we’re doing right now, the couple themselves are not very formal or bothered about appearances per se, and the wedding vibe is very nature inspired, so for him we’ve ended up with a relaxed cut two piece green linen blend and creme shirt to match his fiancée’s dress colour.

So already hopefully you can see there isn’t one generic answer here, and one of the biggest wrong assumptions men make when they hear “summer wedding” is that instantly their brain goes to “light coloured linen suit”. And there’s nothing wrong with that if it leans into the theme of the wedding and would be complementary to their partner’s outfit, but more often than not it’s not where we end up.

Sometimes brides worry about creasing in photos, which is fair enough because these things show up more and in great detail, so you have to consider linen, wool and cotton blended fabrics to avoid that. Sometimes a groom says “light coloured summer suit” and then I speak to the bride and she wants him in something darker and more formal-looking because the location where they’re getting married demands it and her dress is very classy-looking.

Usually these assumptions are because he isn’t aware of everything that’s going on, hence assuming being the key point here and a sure-fire way to mess things up.

Natural Colouring and Why It Matters

Another huge factor, and one most men know absolutely nothing about, is natural colouring. Most men don’t know their best colours, and it does take years of experience to know what works on different types of people, but broadly speaking people tend to have either a yellow base or undertone to their skin, or a blue base.

Yellow based individuals tend to burn easily in the sun, so that includes fair-skinned people, red heads, and some far East Asians. Blue base people tend to tan easily and are often dark haired, and many South Asians and black people are blue based too.

Yellow based people always look best in the colours of spring and autumn, so think of the freshness of greens, yellows, earth tones and blues in spring, and then the colours of falling leaves in autumn. Blue based people look best in ice colours, colder colours, often the colours of winter, so think jewel tones, shirts in ice pinks, white, blue, suits and casual jackets in minty and deep forest greens, burgundy, merlots, deep navy and royal blues, colours that have more of a blue leaning base to them rather than yellow.

When a man gets his colours right he looks like the best, most at ease version of himself, everything about him and his outfit is harmonious and he looks like he’s always known how to dress. In contrast, someone who gets their colours wrong looks off, uncomfortable, and they risk looking cheap and like they didn’t think about it, which for your wedding is the biggest mistake you want to avoid.

Fabric and Construction for a Summer Wedding Suit

Fabric and construction are another massive part of this and something that most men almost never think about. On summer suits especially you really do want the best construction you can afford. Light full canvas is best for longevity but also for the day itself because it helps with the breathability of the garment. Cheaper tailoring using fused garments doesn’t breathe, and the adhesive inside breaks down in heat over time ruining the outfit.

With trousers, if they’re not wool then I generally don’t want them lined, especially if the groom runs super hot. I never line linen, cotton-linen or wool-linen blend trousers because you want the linen or cotton element to do its heat regulating job against the skin. With jackets I prefer fully lined, but for grooms who do worry about overheating I’ll often recommend a full canvas with one-third lining through the back to take some of the heat out.

Summer suits should almost always be soft shouldered and tailored but comfortable, because the closer a garment is to your skin the more heat is trapped and the less airflow you get.

Shirt fabric matters too, and my go-to for anything outside of proper formal is cotton-linen blended because you get the best of both worlds, crease resistance and heat regulation. And tie fabric needs to complement the suit fabric, so often for summer ties I’d consider silk knits or silk print ties, never heavy woollen ties or thick silk wovens because they just look too full-bodied and heavy.

What Should a Wedding Guest Wear to a Summer Wedding?

For guests rather than grooms, the approach is a bit different, but communication is still the biggest thing. I always advise that if possible you speak to one of the couple to find out what they’d expect guests to do. Often there’s a dress code on the invite, so it helps if you’ve paid attention and actually read it, and read the wedding website properly if there is one.

Or often the approach I take is that you’re not just dressing for this one wedding, you need a versatile summer suit that works for multiple occasions and even situations that are not event specific.

For me a versatile summer suit is very often a neutral shade that’s easy to mix and match with other things, and I’ll often design and cut the suit so it can be worn as a whole but then the jacket and trousers can be separated to be worn as an individual summer blazer or summer smart casual trouser. Often that means either a blue suit, not dark navy but a blue that’s got some life to it, or a taupe or stone sort of colour. Some of my clients will often do both because then they can mix and match the components of the two suits. Green is also becoming a popular option because it is nature’s great linking colour and therefore easily matched with other colours.

But when a guest says he wants one suit that can cover several summer weddings and still be useful afterwards, the biggest mistakes he’ll often make when trying to buy “versatility” are fabric and colour temperature. You can’t be too bold with colour for this because distinctive does not mean versatile if your friends recognise it and think it’s the only suit you own, and also bold colours are not often business appropriate.

Shoes, Shirts and Ties

When it comes to shoes, shirts and ties, the biggest mistakes I see are usually around colour first of all. A guy who owns one pair of black shoes might think they work with everything, and that’s just not the case. Cold colours yes, but you can’t wear black shoes with warm colours and earth tones. With brown shoes there are different shades and I generally prefer dark to medium at the most. Tan shoes can look cheap and don’t suit certain skin tones.

For shirts it’s usually best to keep them simple, but the fabric needs to be seasonally appropriate. For summer you wouldn’t wear twills and Oxfords because they’re just too heavy looking. Linen and linen-cotton blends are best. And tie fabric needs to complement suit fabric so often for summer ties I’d consider silk knits or silk print ties, never heavy woollen or thick silk wovens because again they just look too full-bodied and heavy.

And then there’s the question of whether a tie should be worn at all, and really that either depends on the occasion, and if the occasion isn’t demanding it then on the individual.

Three Warnings for Guests and Grooms

If I were giving a guest three simple warnings for summer wedding dressing, they’d be these. Don’t wear a suit or outfit that you normally would wear to the office, or that looks like a work suit or work outfit. Check the weather and make sure you wear something that’s going to keep you at the right temperature and comfortable, because weddings are long days stretching into long nights and you do not want to be uncomfortable and fidgety all day. And finally make sure your shoes are polished, clean and comfortable.

If I were giving a groom three simple warnings, they’d be slightly different. If you’re going to get your suit tailored, make sure you pick the right tailor. If someone comes across as less concerned about your wedding and more concerned about the transaction, they’re not going to give you a good result and the process will be tortuous. Next, communicate with your better half and get their opinion. Ask them what colours they think you look your best in, and whether they have any thoughts about what you should be wearing. Last, don’t leave it till the last minute.

When Should You Start Looking for a Wedding Suit?

If I’m being really honest about timing, you should be starting the process a good six months before the wedding. At a minimum three to four months, but ideally no less than that, because it gives you time not only to go through the process at the correct pace for you and the tailor, but it gives time for proper fine tuning, mistakes to be corrected and all the rest of it.

Otherwise you are at the mercy of off the peg, which never fits properly and doesn’t give you the same choice in fabric, colour and styling that true tailoring does. And if you do have to go off the peg, then you need to ensure you have a good alterations tailor who can make the necessary adjustments to get it fitting as well as possible.

What Good Guidance Should Actually Feel Like

Most men approach a summer wedding outfit feeling lost and not sure where to even begin. It’s like when you get the Christmas lights down from the attic and you don’t know where to even begin untangling them. I’m the friend that sits next to you and helps you untangle the lights.

That’s what this process should feel like. Not transactional, not just someone trying to sell you any suit from the off, but someone who’s actually interested in every aspect of the day and every aspect of you, because I always say you cannot dress someone unless you know something about them, and you certainly can’t dress someone for their wedding if you know nothing about their wedding.

So if someone came to me and said “fine, just give me the short version, what actually makes a great summer wedding outfit?”, my honest answer would be very simple. Tell me about the summer wedding you’re attending, and I’ll tell you what makes the best summer wedding outfit for you.

Because there isn’t one generic best answer. There’s only the right answer for that person, at that wedding, on that day.

And when it all comes together properly, what should happen is that you feel like the absolute best version of yourself. I’ll quote a recent fitting where I had the groom sit down in his suit at the workroom and tell me how he was feeling. He said, “it’s so comfortable. I look and feel amazing. I can’t wait to wear this on the day, I can’t wait for my fiancée to see me and I can’t wait to get married now.”

That’s what you want.

So if you are the groom, this is the biggest day of your life to date, so make sure you treat it like it is.

And if you’re the guest, don’t treat the occasion like a thing you have to do, give it and your friends the respect they deserve.

And one bit of advice: if you are doing any aspect of this alone, lean into your instincts, how you feel in your gut. If you love something at first sight, you’ll love it once it’s in the wardrobe and you’re wearing it. If you’re not sure about something, don’t do it. When you met your fiancée the first time you didn’t think “she’s nice but I’m not sure”, did you? You thought “WOW. Who is she? I think I might be in love, she’s amazing!” Same thing when it comes to your clothes.

If you’ve got a summer wedding coming up and you know you need help getting this right, get in touch.